Semiautomatic hose-shaping machine



I y 1,49' szo. 'Ime lof 1924? J. R. MoFFA'rT s' SEUIAUTOMATI'C *HOSESHAPING MAGHINE Fmg March 24. m21 1s *sheetssheet 2 53 l 5% a I M3 (oWQMW 3% June ll0. 1924.

J. R. Mol-."FATT -sEuxAu'roMAMc HosFl SHAPING #Adams Filed`March124,1921 I5 Shets-Sheot '5 June-"1o, 1924. 1,496,820

J. R. MQFFATT SEMIAUTOMATIC HOSE -SHPING MAGHINI Filaduarcn 24, 1921 1sshunts-shan 4 7 June 1o. 19u,

J. R. MOFFATT SEMIAUTOMATC HOSE SHAPING MACHINE F1156 unen 24, 1921 1sSheets-shqgvfs June J. R. MoFFA- rr SEIIIAUTOKATIK.) HOSE SHAPINGIACHINB Filed March 24. 1921 15 Sheets-Shut '7 June 10. 1924.

' i ,496,820 J. R. MoFFA'r'r SEMIAUTOMATIC HOSE SHAPING MACHINE FiledMarch 24, 1921 15 shunts-Sheet 5 mmmll 'n '11 'n Y Y @WIM NIE June v10.19214. l.l4r96,820

J. R. MOFFATT 'SEMIAUTOMATIG HOSE SAPING MACHINE Filed March 24. 1921 13Sheets-Sheet 9 June 10. 1924.- 1,496,829-

J. R. MOFFATT SEHIAUTOMATIC HOSE SHAPIG MACljUINEl Filed March 24, 1921lf3 Shasta-'Sheet 10 Y g l C), HNHK C@ J. R. MOFFATT SEUIAUTOMATIC HDSESHAPING MACHINE June 10 1924.

(15' Shoots-Shut 11 @umm/toc J0 "mm Filed March 24.

@diamants June 10. 1924.

l ,49.6.5820 J. R. MQFFATT SEMIAUTOMATIC HOSE SHAPING MACHINE FiledMarch. 24 192x 13 ShoetsfShut 12 June 10. 1924. 1,496,820

J. R. MQFF'ATT SEIIIAUTOMATIC HOSE SHAPING MACHINE Filed March 24. 192113 SheAts-Shoet 15 Patented June 10, 1924.

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

JAMES R. MOFFATT, OF CHICAGO, ILLINOIS, .ASSIGNOR TO UNION SPECIALMACHINE COMPANY, OF CHICAGO, ILLINOIS, A CORPORATION OF ILLINOIS.

SEMIAUTOIMATIC I-IOSE-SHAPING MACHINE.

Application filed March 24, 1921.

To all whom t may concern:

Be it known that l, JAMES R. Morra'r'r, a citizen of the United States,residing at Chicago, in the county of Cook, State of Illinois, haveinvented certain new and useful Improvements in Semiautomatic Hose-Shaping Machines, of which the Ifollowing is a description, referencebeing had to the accompanying drawing, and to the figures of referencemarked thereon.

The invention relates to new and useful improvements in trimming andseaming machines, and more particularly to a machin-e for shaping bytrimming and seaming stockings.

An object of the invention is to provide a machine of the abovecharacter with means for automatically cutting out apredeterminedportion from a tubular V'stocking for shaping the same, and for seamingtogether the trimmed edges simultaneously with the trimming thereof.

A further object of the invention is to provide a machine of the abovecharacter with automatic means for throwing out the trimmer at apredetermined time without stopping the stitching mechanism so that theseaming of the stocking may continue.

A further object ofA the invention is to provide a machine of the abovecharacter with `means for varying the length of the feed stroke with thethrowing in and out of the trimming mechanism.

A. further object of the invention is to provide pattern controlledmeans for shaping the stocking and automatic means for rendering saidpattern controlled mechanism idle at a predetermined time forsimultaneously throwing out the trimming me-chanism and forsimultaneously changing the length of feed and releasing the tensiononthe needle thread.

These and other objects will in part bel obvious and will in part behereinafter more fully disclosed.

In the drawings which show by way of illustration one` embodiment of theinvention- Figure l is a front yview ofa machine embodying myimprovements; Fig. 2 is a plan View of the same with a part of thesupporting guide for the stocking broken away;

Fig. 3 is a sectional view on the line 3-3 of Fig. 2;

Serial No. 454,985.

Fig. t is a view of the machine from the left-hand side thereof;

Fig. 5 is a view partly in vertical section and partly in side elevationfrom the left side of the machine, the section being taken in front ofthe trimming blades;

on the line on the line on the line parts of the trimming mechanism, theparts being separated for the sake of clearness;

Fig. 13 `is a view partly in plan and partly in horizontal section,substantially on the line 18-13 of Fig. 3; i.

Fig. 111 is an enlarged sectional view on the line lllll of Fig. 13;

Fig. l5 is a perspective view of the stocking support and guide; i

Fig. 16 is a sectional View along the line 16-16 of Fig. 15; l

Fig. 17 is an enlarged detail show-ing a stocking trimmed and seamed onmy improved machine., and Fig. 18 is an enlarged detail showing thestitching devices and the stitches formed thereby.

The invention is direct-ed to a machine for trimming and seaming, andmore particularly to a machine for trimming tubular knit stockings forshapingy the same, and for simultaneously seaming the trimmed edges. Theinvention preferably includes mechanism whereby the stocking may beshifted as it is trimmed so as to shape thestocking and includes meansfor automatically controlling the shifting of the stocking `for theshaping of the same; means for automatically throwing out of action thetrimming mechanism and the pattern cam for controlling the shaping ofthe stocking at predetermined times. The machine also includes means forautomatically varying the length of stitch when the trimming (iti stops,so that the stitching may be continued up the leg of the stockingforming an imitation seam. The machine also includes means for releasingthe tension when the length of feed is increased.

Referring to Fig. 17, I have shown a stocking at 1 wherein the legportion is cut from the point a to the point The seam c for the stockingbegins at 2 and extends up the entire leg of the stocking. From thepoint 2 to the point a', the fabric is' not cut, and therefore the seamis an imitation or a false seam until the point c is reached. At thepoint a, the trimming members are set into operation and the stocking istrimmed on the curved line t4-5. When the trimming devices are set intooperation, the length of feed is shortened and the tension on the needlethread is slightly increased so that a good, firm, durable uniting orcovering seam is formed for uniting and covering the trimmed edges asthey are trimmed. A controlling cam gradually shifts the guide for thestocking so that the stocking is shaped according to the shaping of thecontrolling cam. l/Vhen the point is reached, automatic means controlledby the machine throws the trimming devices out of action, also lengthensthe feed and releases the tension on the needle thread, and the seamingcontinues, but from the point b on, the seam is an imitation or falseseam, as the stocking is not trimmed.` lt, is understood, of course,that the stocking which is being shaped is the ordinary tubular stockingwhich is of substantially the same diameter throughout the entirelength, and the purpose of the invention is to produce a stocking whichis shaped throughout the ankle portion and which has the .appearance ofbeing shaped and seamed throughout the substantial entire length of theleg portion thereof.

The invention will be described under the various groups of mechanismswhich have been brought together' in the creating of a machine forcarrying out the functions described. l

Stitching niccm/n/Zsln.

The stitching mechanism consists of a needle 3 which is carried by ahorizontally disposed needle bar 4- which reciprocates in suitablebearings in a housing or frame 5. Said needle bar receives itsreciproction from a main shaft 6 carried by the main frame or housing.Cooperating with the needle 3 is a thread carrying looper 7. The looper7 is carried by a rod 8 which is mounted inl bearings carried by a yokeThe looper is given the usual movements for moving the same into theneedle loop on one side of the seam, after which the looper moves to theother side of the seam where it presents the looper thread for theentrance of the needle.

ln Fig. 18 of the drawings, I have shown more or less diagrammaticallythe needle and looper and the seam formed thereby. The needle thread isindicated at n and the looper thread is indicated at Z. The stocking isindicated in this figure at 1 and the stitch finger over which thestitches are formed is indicated at 10. The needle thread n is led fromthe supply through suitable guides to an auxiliary tension 11, thence toa main tension 12, and thence through suitable guides to the needle. Thelooper thread is led through an auxiliary tension 13, thence through amain tension la and thence through suitable controlling guides to thelooper. The stitch forming mechanism forms no part of the presentinvention per se, and further description thereof is not thoughtnecessary.

Feeding mechanism..

The material is supported and fed to the stitching mechanism by twocooperating horizontally disposed feed cups and 16. The feed cup 15 iscarried by a vertical shaft 1T which is given an intermittent movementby means of an oscillating clutch member 18, and this clutch member isvibrated by means of a link 19 which is connected to a slotted arm 20carried by a vertical shaft 21, which shaft also carries an arm 22 towhich is attached an eccentric strap 23 cooperating with an eccentric onthe main shaft 6. The outer feed cup 1G is carried by a verticallydisposed shaft mounted in an arm 2e and rotated' intermittently by aflexible shaft 25. The flexible shaft 25 is connected to a vertin calshaft 26, see dotted lines, Fig. 1i, and this vertical shaft 2G carriesa gear 2i' which is driven from' a gear on the shaft 1T. As the mainshaft rotates, it will impart an oscillation to the vertical shaft 21,and through the arm 2() will oscillate the friction clutch and thusimpart a step by step movement to the feed cups. The arm 2O is slottedand the link 19 is capable of being shifted along the slot in the arm20, and when said link is moved outwardly away from 'the center of theshaft 21, the stroke imparted to the cup feed wheels 'will be increased,and when it is moved inwardly toward the center of the shaft 21, thestroke imparted to the feed wheels will be decreased. This feedingmechanism per se, forms no part of the present invention, and furtherdescription thereof is not thought necessary.

Trimming mechanism.

The material is trimmed in advance4 of the stitching mechanism by twocooperating trimming blades 28 and 29. The blade 28 is a stationaryblade and is fixed to an overhanging arm 30 which in turn is formedintegral with a bracket 31 (see Fig. 12). This bracket 31 is secured tothe frame of the machine by a screw passing through a verticallyelongated slot 32 and by a screw 33 passing through a verticallyelongated slot Sel formed in a plate 35 which in turn is secured to thebracket 31 by means lof a screw 36. Said plate 35 has a rearwardlyextending lug 37 through which an adjusting bolt 38 passes. Thisadjusting bolt 38 is threaded into the frame, and is provided with` acollar engaging the under face of the lug 3T so that when the adjusting`bolt is turned, the plate 35 will move bodily with the bolt. Thetrimming blades are raised and lowered by means of this adjusting bolt,first having loosened the clamping bolt 33 and the clamping bolt passingthrough the slot 32. The movable trimming blade 29 is carried by a slide39 which is mounted to move in a guideway l() formed in the bracket 3l.AA cover plate il covers the guideway and permits the free movement ofthe slide 39. The movable blade 29 is clamped to a supporting shank l2which in turn is clamped to the slide 39v by a bolt threaded into theopening 43. This bolt passes through an elongated slot 4A- in the slide39 which permits of a limited adjustment for the blade 29 to bring itinto proper shearing contact with the stationary blade 28. The slide 39is provided with a depending lug 45. Said lug is formed with arecess 4:6in which seats a spring 47. The outer end of the spring a7 bears againsta vertical wall ttl of the cover plate 4l. Pivotally connected'to thedepending lugt is a two-part link.` Said link consists of a section 49in the form of a sleeve, and a section 50 carrying a rod 5l adapted tomove freely in the sleeve 49. A latch 52 is pivoted at 53 to the section50 and is provided with a nose 54 adapted to seat in a recess formed inthe upper face of the section 49. The sprine` 55 secured by suitablescrews 56 to the latch, bears on the section 5() of the link, vandyieldingly forces the nose of the latch into the recess of the sleeve49. The link is pivoted at 57 to an oscillating` arm 5S. The oscillatingarm 58 is tixed to a shaft 59, and this shaft 59 carries a lever 60located within the housing or frame of the machine. The lower end ofthis lever is connected to an eccentric strap 6l which cooperates withan eccentric on the main shaft 6. The upper end of the lever GO isconnected to the looper shaft for imparting one of the movementsthereto. This shaft 59 continues to oscillate during the entireoperation of stitching the stocking, and therefore, the arm 58 will alsobe a continuously oscillating arm through the entire ruiming of themachine. When the latch is in engagement with the recess in the section49 of. the link, then the parts of the link are rigidly connectedtogether, and then'the oscillations of the arm 58 will cause the slide39 to reciprocate, and thus impart movement to the trimming blade 29 forsevering the material. Then the latch 52 is raised, then the twosections of the link are disconnected and the spring L7 will move theslide 39 to its extreme retracted position where it will remain whilethe section i9 freely reciprocates back and forth on the rod 5l, whichforms a part of the front section 50 of the link.

It will thus be seen that l have'provided a trin'iming mechanism whichmay be thrown into and out of operation.

Stocking guide.

ing sleeve 67 mounted upon a fixed stud 68 carried by a standard 69,which in turn is supported by a base plate 70 secured by suitable screwsto the table which carries the machine. The stocking guide can beswunghorizontally on the pintles 64k and it can be also swung vertically onthe stud G8. Said guide is swung horizontally about the pintle for thepurpose of placing the stocking on the guide. After the stocking hasbeen placed on the guide with the rear part of the leg portion at thetop of the guide, it is then swung into normal position relative to themachine 'and the lug 7l carried by the frame will engage underneath thespring clips 72 carried by the bracket G6 which yieldingly holds theguide in normal. position so that the stocking will pass off from theguide and between the feed cups. A. stationary bracket arm 64151 engagesthe stock ing supporting frame adjacent the forward end thereof andserves to aline the same with the feed cups, see Figs. 4 and la.

Pattern 'mechanism for slaap/ng stocking.

As above noted, the guide is capable of being swung up and downvertically and is movable in a vertical planeparallel with the axes ofthe feed cups and the stocking passing off from the guide, passes firstto the trimming devices and thence to the stitching mechanism, theeXtreme upper edge of the stocking passing underneath the stitch finger.It will readily be seen that when the stocking supporting guide israised, the trimmers will engage the stocking comtit) ing olf from theframe, and if the' frame is lifted step by step, the line of trimmingwill pass deeper into the stocking, and then again when the guide islowered step by step, it will come out of the body of the stocking, thusproducing a severing of the stocking on the curved line a-Z) asindicated in F ig. 17 of the drawii'igs. The frame is raised and loweredstep by step by means of a pattern cam 73. This pattern cam 73 isrigidly mounted on a rod 74 (see Fig. 9) which is supported by a bracket7 5 attached to the frame or housing of the machine. An arm 76 carries aroller 77 which bears on this cam 73. Said cam is a face cam and as itturns it normally forces the arm 76 to the right, as viewed in Fig. 14.A spring 78 holds Athe roller 77 in contact with the cam 73. The arm 76is pivotally supported by a pintle 79 and has a downward extension 80which, with the arm 76 constitutes a lever. Loosely mounted on this samepintle 79 is an arm 81. A link 82 is pivoted at 83 to the arm 81. Alatch 84 is pivoted at 85 to the arm 81 and is provided with a lug 86adapted to engage the lefthand face of the extension 80 of the arm 76,lthus locking the arm 76 and the arm 81 together, so that they move one.The other end of the link 89 is pivoted at 67 to a slotted arm 88carried by the bracket arm 66. `When the outer end of the arm 76 isforced outwardly by the rotation of the cam 73, the link 82 will bemoved to the left as viewed in Fig. 14 or to the right as viewed in Fig15.` and this will vswing the stocking guiding frame upwardly. (ln theother hand, when the arm 76 moves to the left through the action of thespring 78 and the turning of the cam 73, then the stocking supportingframe will be swung downwardly.

The latch 84 is connected to .the rod 89, which in turn is connectedeither to a treadle or knee shift, and when the latch 84 is depressed bythe treadle so as to disconnect the arme 81 from the arm 76, then thestocking guiding frame will swing until the bracket arm 66 strikes anadjustable stop 90 carried by the standard 69. The purpose of this is tolower the frame so that it may be swung underneath and in front of theouter feed cup for the loading of the stocking thereon. After it hasbeen returned to its normal position, it is then raised to a positionsubstantially ou a level with the trimming blades. Here it remainsdin-ing thev stitch ing of the false or imitation seam, and when thatpart of thc stocking is reached which iS to be shaped, then the patterncam is thrown into operation and it will gradually raise the stockingguide to the maximum height, and then gradually lower it again to normalposition, after which the cam is automatically thrown out of action andthe guide will remain in this normal position allowing the stocking tobe fed off from the same while the stitching continues along the legportion of the stocking.

The means for rotating the pattern cam 73 will now be described.Attention is di.-

rected particularly to Figs. 3, and 8 to 10, inclusixfe. Rigidly securedto the oscillating arm 58 is an arm 91 provided with a radial slot 92. Apivot pin 93 is adjustably mounted in this slot 952. A link 94 isconnected at its upper end to said pivot pin 93 and at its lower end toa pivot pin 95 adjustable in a slot 96 'formed in an arm 97 projectingoutwardly from a disk 98. This disk 98 as clearly shown in Figs. 8 and9, is provided with a hub 99 which is adapted to cooperate with frictiongripping members 100 and 101. These friction gripping members engage aprojecting collar 102 carried by a disk 103 freely mounted on the rod74. The disk 103 is formed with a ratchet hub 104 with which a pawl 105is adapted to cooperate. This pawl 105 is pivoted at 106 to a cupv 107which is secured by means of aI bolt at 108 to the cam 73. The pawl isforced into locking engagement with thev ratchet hub 104 by means of aspring 109. As the arm 58 oscillates it will impart an oscillationjtothe disk 98 and the disk 98 through the friction gripping plates 100 and101 will intermittently rotate the disk 103, and this disk 103, whenlocked by the pawl 105 to the cup 107, will intermittently rotate thecam 73. A gripping plate 110 operates to prevent retrograde movement ofthe cam. then the pawl 105 is thrown out of engagement with the ratchethub 104, then the cam 73 will be unlocked from the disk 103 and saiddisk will intermittently rotate without imparting any movement to thecam 73. ThusI have provided means whereby this cam 73 may be renderedidle, notwithstanding the fact that the actuating devices thereforcontinue their movement.

Automat/c control for trimmers, shaping fa/m, feeding Wwe/Lament, mtllneedle tit/read tension.

l have provided means for automatically disconnecting the shaping camfrom the actuating mechanism therefor at a predetermined time, and thisautomatic mechanism includes an arm 112, having a nose 113 which rideson a surface cam 114 formed as a part of the cup 107 carrying thepattern cam. This arm 112 is pivotally supported on a pin 111 fixed tothe bracket 75. This surface cam 114 has an outwardly extending camshaped surface 115. The cup 107 rotates in the direction indicated bythe arrow in Fig. 10. The nose 113 is spring Dressed against the surfaceof the cam 114 and the arm 112 will be swung outwardly by means of thecani portion 115, and when the nose drops. olf from this camportion 115,it passes into an opening 116 and bears against the pawl 105 and movesthe pawl so and the arm 112 is given its extremefmovement in the otherdirection through the action of a spring 117. (See F ig. 3.) This spring117 bears against an arm 118 which is formed as a part of the arm 112,and raising the arm 118 serves to move the arm 112 so as to. press thenose thereof into contact with the surface cam 114.

As above noted, the length of the feed depends upon the position of thepivot bolt connecting the link 19 with 'the slotted arm 20. This pivotbolt is shifted in the slot by means of a link 119 which is connected bya ball stud 120 formed as a part of the pivot pin and also to an arm 121fixed to a shaft 122. This shaft 122 :is mounted in suitable bearingsattached to the main housing as clearly shown in Fig. 7, and a coiledspring 123 surrounding said shaft normally tends to rock the shaft 122so as to move the pivot pin for the link 19 to the extreme outer end ofthe slot in the arm 20.v A stop screw 124 determines the extent of theIoutward movement of the pivot pin and this stop screw is adjustable.When the trimming devices are in action,the movement of the arm 20 willnot impart movement. to the arm 121 because Ithe link 119 will merelyswing on its ball connections.v Rigidly secured to the shaft 122 is anarm 125 having a projecting lug 126. Formed as apart of the arm 112 is adepending arm 127 which is provided with a nose 128 adapted to engage inrear of the lug 126 when the trimming devices are in action and`restrain. the shaft from movement through the action of thecoiledspring. The normal-position of the controlling devices, in whichthe trimming .mechanism is inactive is shown in Fig. 4. The operatorpressing on the outer end of the arm 121, forces the pivot pin to theinner end of the slot in the arm 20, and during this movement the nose128 rides over the curved outer end of the lug 126 and will drop behindthe lug, due to the action of the spring 117, which is constantlyforcing the arm 112- to the left as viewed in Fig. 4. Then the nose .128slips in behind the lug 126, the movement of the arm 112 is limitedthereby so that the nose 113 does not engage the pawl 105, and as aconsequence, the cam 73 will be locked up to its actuating mechanism andwill begin its intermittent rotation. 1t will thus be seen that bypushing in on the lower end of the arm 121, not only shortens the feedbut sets the pattern cam into actuation, and it will continue to actuateuntil the cam has made a complete rotation and the cam 115 operatingupon the arm 112 swings the arm 127 to the right as viewed in Fig. 5, soas to release the arm 125 and then the spring will throw the arm 121outward increasing the length of feed and permitting the arm 112 toswing inwardly to a point so as to release the pawl wise released.

105 and disconnect the pattern cam from its actuating mechanism. Theinward movement of the arm 112 is brought about by an upward movement ofthe arm 118. This arm 118 in its upward movement engages a depending arm129 rigidly'carried by the latch 52, and raises the latch so as todisconnect tlie outer section 50 of the link from the inner section 49thereof, and thus stops the trimming mechanism. When the arm 118 isdepressed through the outward movement of the arm 127, then the latch isreleased and the spring controlling the latch will. couple up thesections of the link for operating the trimming blades. The' inwardmovement of the arm 121 therefore accomplishes several functions. First,it decreases the length of feed; second, it connects the pattern cam toits actuating mechanism, and third, throws the trimming mechanism intooperation. The inward movement of this `arm 121 secures still a fourthfunction, and

that is, to place an additional tension on the needle thread. Looselymounted on the shaft 122 is a plate 130. Said plate is secured to thearm 121 by a screw 131, which passes through a slot in the plate. Saidplate carries an arm 132 which in turn is connected to a rod 133 andthis rod, at its upper end is pivotally `connected to a rock arm 134.Said rock arm 134 has a depending arm 135 adapted to engage a pin 136carried by a sliding plate 137. Said sliding plate is mounted on screws138, which pass through elongated slots on the plate and are threadedinto the bracket 139 on which the tensions are mounted. Said plate 137has an upwardly extending forked arm 140 which straddles a rod 141carrying a tension spring 142 which normally presses the tension disk 11into contact with the needle thread. When this bar 137 is moved to theleft as viewed in Fig. 6, it will compress the spring 142 and relievethe disk 11 from tension. 1Vhen the 'bar 137 is released, a spring 143will operate to move said bar to the right and permit the spring 142 toexert its normal tension on the disk 11. then the arm 121 is movedinwardly to shorten the feed, the bar 137 is released and the auxiliarytension is applied to the needle thread. When, however, thisy arm 121moves outwardly and the feed is increased in length, then the auxiliarytension on the needle thread is like- In order to deiect the trimmed offstrip away from the stitching element, I have provided a strip guard144. y

ilk

147 secured to the machine to facilitate the cutting of the threatsbetween stitched articles.

peratc'on.

t isy hardly thought necessary to describe in detail the operation ofthe machine, as the operation of the various groups of mechanisms havebeen set forth in the detail description thereof. It may be stated,however, in a summing up, that the operator depresses the latch Sliwhich releases the stocking supporting frame and permits the same todropy after which it is swung hori- Zontally away from the feed cups andthe stocking placed thereon. The frame is then returned to its normalposition, 'the latch connected with the arm 80, which will hold thesupporting frame on a level with the. upper edges of the feed cups, sothat the stocking sliding off' from the frame through the intermittentfeeding action of 'the feed cups, will pass underneath the stitch lingerand a covering seam formed in the stocking. As above noted, thiscovering seam is in a sQIlSe, a false or imitation scam until the pointa. is reached, for the reason that the trimming devices are idle and thestitches are merely formed in the body of the stocking which is tubularin shape, and therefore, there are no edges to unite. liVhen the point cis reached, the operator presses inwardly on the arm 121 which sets intoaction the pattern cam, the trimming mechanism, decreases the length offeed, and applies the auxiliary tension te the needle Jthread. As thestitching proceeds, the trimmers will new trim the stocking and thetrimmed edges will be simultaneously united and covered by the stitchingthreads. As the stitching and trimming proceeds the stocking guide willbe` raised step by step for a period of time, and then again loweredstep by step, thus forming or shaping the ankle portion of the stocking,and the particular shaping given, will depend upon the shape of thepattern cam 73. After the pattern cam has made a complete rotation andthe stocking is shaped throughout the ankle portion, the edges unitedand covered, then the machine automatically stops the pattern cam, stopsthe trimming mechanism, increases the length of feed, and decreases thetension on the needle threads. At this time, the stocking frame hasreturned to normal position, where it remains, as the lifting camtherefor is idle, and the stitching continues up the leg of thestocking, again making a. false or imitation seam, as there are no edgesto unite. lt will thus be seen that I have provided a machine whereinthe stocking may be seamed throughout the entire leg portion thereof andshaped through the ankie portion.

It is obvious that the machine may be used for other purposes than forthe shaping and stitching of stockings, and that the. details ofconstruction and the arrangement of the parts may be widely variedwithout departing from the spirit of the invention as vset forth .in theappended claims.

Having thus described the invention, what I claim, as new and desire tosecure by Letters Patent, is-- l. The combination of stitch formingmechanism, a feeding mechanism, a trimming mechanism, a mechanismoperating at a predetermined time for automatically throwing out thetrimming mechanism Without stopping the stitching mechanism, saidmechanism for automatically throwing out the trimming mechanismincluding means for increasing the length of feed when the trimmingmechanism is thrown out of operation.

2. The combination of stitch forming mechanism, a. feeding mechanism, atrimming mechanism, a guide along which the material moves to the stitchforming mechanism and means for shifting the guide along which thearticle moves step by step, first in one direction and then in the otherfor cutting out a section on a curved line.

3. The combination of stitch forming mechanism, a feeding mechanism, atrimming mechanism, means for shiftingI the article being stitched stepby step, first in one direction and then in the other for cutting out asection on a curved line, and means for automatically vthrowing out thetrimming mechanism at a predetermined time without stopping thestitching mechaDSm.

4l. The. combination with stitch forming mechanism, a feeding mechanismand `a trimming mechanism; of means for shifting the article beingtrimmed step by step, first in one direction and then in the other forcutting out a section on a curved line, and means for automaticallythrowing out the trimming mechanism at a' predetermined time withoutstopping the stitching mechanism and for simultaneously increasing thelength of the feed.

5. The combination with stitch forming mechanism, a feeding mechanismand a trimming mechanism; of means for shifting the article beingtrimmed, step by step, first in one direction and then in the other forcutting out a section on a curved line, and means for automaticallythrowing out the trimming mechanism at a predetermined time withoutstopping the stitching mechanism and for simultaneously throwing out ofaction the means for shifting the article being trimmed.

6. The combination with stitch forming mechanism, `a :feeding mechanismand a trimming mechanism, of means for shifting the article beingtrimmed. step by step, first in one direction and then in the other forcutting out a section on a curved line, and means operating at apredetermined time forthrowing out the trimming mechanism, stopping thelateral shift of the article being trimmed, and for changing the lengthof feed.

7. The combination of stitch forming mechanism, a feeding mechanism,cooperating trimming members, means for reciprocating one of saidmembers, means whereby said reciprocating trimming member may bedisconnected from its operating means, means for shifting the articlebeing stitched step by step, lirst in one direction and then f in theother for cutting out a section on a curved line, and mann-allycontrolled means for throwing the trimmer operating means into action.

8. The combination of stitch forming mechanism, a feeding mechanism, andcooperating trimming members, means forreciprocating one of saidmembers, means for disconnecting said `reciprocating member from itsoperating means,`a guide, normally inactive means for shifting theguide, first 'in one direction and then in the other for causing thearticle to be cut on a curved line, and manually controlled means forconnecting the reciprocating trimming member to its operating means andfor setting` into action the means for shifting the guide.

9. The. combination with overseaming stitching mechanism, of a` feedingmechanism, cooperating trimming blades located in advance of thestitching' mechanism, means for guiding the article being stitched,means for shifting the guide step by step, first in one direction andthen in the other for causing a curved section to be cut from thearticle being stitched, and means for `automatically throwing out ofaction the shifting means for the gnide and for rendering the trimmingmechanism inoperative.

10. The combination With overseaming 'stitching mechanism, of a feedingmechanism, cooperating trimming blades located in advance of thestitching mechanism, means for guiding the article being stitched, meansfor shifting the guide step by step, iirst in one direction and thenyinthe other for causing a curved section to be cut from the articlebeing stitched, and means operating at a predetermined time forautomatically throwing out of action the shifting means for the guideand for rendering the trimming mechanism inoperative, and for increasingthe length of feed.

11. The combination of overseaming stitching mechanism, of a feedingmechanism, a stationary trimming blade, a movable blade cooperating Withsaid stationary blade, means for reciprocating said movable blade,Vautomatic means operating at a predetermined time for disconnectingsaid movable blade from its reciprocating means,

means for withdrawing the movable blade from the path of travel of thearticle when disconnected from its reciprocating means, and means forincreasing the length of feed when the movable trimming blade isdisconnected'from its reciprocating means.

12. The combination of overseaming stitching mechanism, feedingmechanism, a stationary trimming blade, a movable blade cooperating withsaid stationary blade, means for reciprocating said movable blade,automatic means operating at a predetermined time for disconnecting saidmovable blade from its reciprocating means, means for withdrawing themovable blade from the path of travel of the article when disconnectedfrom its reciprocatingmeans, a guide for guiding the article beingstitched, means for shifting the guide step by step, `first in onedirection and then in the other for cutting a curved section from thearticle, and means for automatically throwing out said shifting meansfor the guide when the movable trimming blade is disconnected from itsoperating means.

13. The combination of overseaming stitching mechanism including ahorizontally arranged needle, feed cups for supporting and feeding anarticle tov the stitching mechanism, trimming blades located in advanceof the needle, means for reciprocating one of said blades, and meansoperating at a. predeterniined time for automatically disconnecting saidreciprocating blade from its operating means.

lll. The combination of oversean'iing stitching mechanism including ahorizontallly varranged needle, feed cups for snpporting and feeding anarticle to the stitching mechanism, trimming blades located in advanceof the needle, means for reciprocating one of said blades, meansoperating at a predetermined time for automatically disconnecting saidreciprocating blade fromy its operating means, a guide for supportingand directing the article being stitched to the feed cups, and means forraising and lowering said guide step by step for causing the trimmingblades to cut a curved section from the article.

l5. The combination of' an overseaming stitch forming mechanismincluding a horizontally disposed needle, feed cups for supporting andfeeding an article to the needle, horizontally disposed trin'nningmembers located in advance of the needle, means for reciprocating one ofsaid trimming members, a guide for supporting and directing the articleto the trimming members, and means for raising and lowering said guidestep by step, for cnt-ting a curved section from the article beingtrimmed and stitched.

16. The combination of an overseaming stitch forming mechanism includinga horizontally disposed needle, feed cups for supllG

